Doddridge's Powder blue tuxedo was cut in the common fashion

                So My plan is to knock roughly two of these out a week until the ADD kicks in. One full of abstract weirdness, information and ramblings on gear and the other more of a how to that can help new folks build a kit in a quick inexpensive way. One of the things I really Liked about Jim Mullin’s blog was that he was able to put out a lot of documented ” how to “info for folks.  so I’m going to steal that idea (thanx Jim) and combine it with some advice Alan Krause gave me years ago was that if you can learn to sew a shirt and trousers you can pretty much make anything that you’d wear in this hobbie. So here goes..

                Let me tell you about my kit in 1995. For real I had my senior pictures taken wearing my cool as hell native kit. This was red glass bead necklace, Daniel day lewis hair (eagle feather tied to my man bun) muslin shirt with antler buttons, mystery pattern leather leggings, brass arm bands and gorget, dixie mountain rifle and smoke and fire mocs. This kit was awesome. And yes it is now the “powder blue tuxedo” picture I see when I go to my parents’ house. A slap in the face that my choices in the 1990’s might have been a little off. For real I read scouwa and came up with that?

 Can we all agree the 90’s are over? I bring this up not because I miss the music of Candlebox (I was more into the Misfits) but more to point out, well the 90’s are over. Research hasn’t stopped but it seems a lot of historic sites/ people’s minds/ viewpoints have. It’s not a popular thing to say but it is a general fact the “Longhunter” uniform of the 1990’s has become just that a uniform. For many folks the leather flapless leggings, unhemmed shirt under a brown waistcoat under a split front unhemmed shirt is a great catchall outfit from the 1750’s thru 1812. It’s what THEY WORE! Add to this a number of smaller details that have also become sutler mainstays (pennanular brooches, Chinese scissors, the leather tabbed garters, cotton sashes of woodsy colors, etc etc)

                The problem is…It’s not what they wore, it’s not what they used. It’s a snapshot in time of the up to date research that folks had, the cultural idea we had of the past and the stuff sutlers rushed to make/order from Pakistan to fill a niche market. Look at the artwork from any frontier site from the 1950’s it’ll look dated but it’s what they thought the past looked like. Laugh all you want the 1990’s uniform is the same thing. A dated concept. A concept based on up to date research but then the research marched onward. Not a judgement, not a slam, just a fact.

                So why bring this up? Start an internet wide flame war that will lock up pages with brown vs color debate again. Talk about my poor choices in 1990’s fashion? Alienate folks and build followers to march towards a great and grand utopia of juried events that keep out all those who disagree with me and don’t worship at the altar of Kochan wool, hand sewing and Cthulu? No, like I said before I’ve done events with guys in Cheetos orange chrome tanned leather I’ve learned tricks for starting a fire faster with a flint and steel and had a blast and done events with guys who looked like they stepped out of a Morier painting and couldn’t change a flint and been bored crazy.  I’m just about getting folks out and doing stuff in their gear. BUT I’m also not going to sit here and pretend that we don’t lie to the public with our kits as easily as we can with our mouths. We can also lie to ourselves if we don’t reexamine just what we “know”. If you can improve your impression why don’t you? Unless you like listening to “Better then Ezra” then by all means rock on with the 90’s.

                Ok now that your angered or intrigued lets start building on a new “uniform” kit for the backcountry folks. I’ve already mention the fact trousers are a common item being worn on the frontier. Lets start building toward a common “uniform” that does show up across a wide area of the backcountry and beyond…A jacket and Hunting shirt.

                Buried in Doddridge’s description of a backcountry man’s clothes  a few things have been glossed over in the rush to look old timey. His specific comment on undergarments is:

                “The shirt and jacket were of the common fashion”

That’s a pretty vague description. But it’s also showing that these garments unlike the oddball hunting shirt were pretty standard for the time. Jackets were a common working class garment across the whole of Europe in the 18^th century.  So why wouldn’t common working class people moving into the backcountry keep wearing them?

                My favorite hunter John Jameson purchases a typical Doddridge kit at Illinois in the 1760’s:

John Jameson April 21 1767

1 breechclout 9/ 1 pr leggings 9/

To james Killy for three dollars for a jacket

To George hunter for an indian belt .7.6

To a hunting frock 1.2.6

People are also purchasing Other types of jackets from BWM as well:

Alexander Ferguson

June 4 1768

1 knife 5’ 1 frock 12”10

1 comb 2” 1 Handkf 5”

June 5th 1 pr trousers 15”

                This same time you see the taylors at Fort Pitt making jackets:

William Oswell Sept 1767

Jacket Lined with flannel 20”

Other jackets made:

Making Jacket Lapeled /10

Making single breasted jacket 7/10

Making a coat with holes in the sleeves and flaps 22/10 ( not sure whats up with that one)

In October of 1770 A man runs away in Augusta county Virginia that sounds like he would fit right at home in Doddridge’s world:

RUN away from the subscriber living in Augusta, near Stanton, a convict servant man named JOHN CEATON, an Englishman, about 5 feet 5 inches high; had on when he went away, a white hunting shirt with striped wristbands, a light coloured lappelled jacket lines with white blanketing, two coarse shirts, and a pair of trowsers, a pair of black worsted stockings, a spotted silk handkerchief, old shoes and brass buckles, a red-coloured wig and has crooked toes. Whoever takes up and secures said servant so that I may have him again, shall have FORTY SHILLINGS reward, besides what the law allows, and reasonable charges paid if brought home. ADAM REABURN.

During Dumore’s war Col. Flemming reports of a jacket found by some of his men:

“some of our men found..an old fine shirt which they judged misght cost 2/ stirling pr YD and an old cloth jacket, sky blew couler”

                Ok this leads me off into a rabbit hole. I’ve also found a reference to a man being killed in Dunmore’s war wearing a red coat. The guys brother specifically says “don’t wear that or you’ll die” now to some peoples mindset the sky blew jacket on a dead guy and the red coat on another dead guy is proof that if you wore these things…you’d get” Kilt fer sure” not proof that people on the frontier wore sleeved colored garments. Never mind both of these men were killed by guys wearing red vermillion paint and white trade shirts. One was on a battlefield and one was living in an active war zone…people wearing all kinds of colors were shot.  Wool, linen, nettles are not bullet proof. End of rant

When Cresswell is taking stock of just what clothes he has left after his grand adventure he mentions:

“I am Now reduced to three ragged shirts, two pair linen breeches in the same condition, a hunting shirt and jacket with one pair stockings”

                He also has a pair of native made leggings , mocs,a mink tobacco pouch killer headdress.. so I think he came out ahead. Crybaby.

John Joseph Henry has a pretty good narrative on his march to Quebec as a rifleman in  with Arnold's men and he comments on his clothes:

“My wardrobe was scanty and light. It consisted of a roundabout jacket of woolen, a pair of half worn buckskin breeches, two pair of woolen stockings, a hat with a feather, a hunting shirt, leggings a pair of mockasins a pair of tolerably good shoes which had been closely hoarded.”

                To my eye this sounds like the standard kit that keeps popping up in Virginia, Pennsylvania and southward from the 1760’s onward.  Add in leggings, trousers or a clout etc and you have a large variation of just what you could wear and still be 100% documentable for the backcountry.  It's also a solid kit for events over a wide geographic area.

             I've said it many times people did not simply toss their ideas of fashion, culture, etc off when they hit Carlisle, Staunton, Fort Pitt etc. They kept them and adapted them to their new surroundings.  Doddridge says "of the common fashion"  do I really need to say more? Will this Kit look dated  10-20 years down the road? maybe and honestly I hope so. I hope we learn more details and push more to get it right. Isnt that why we do this.

           Before I close I'm going to nip one argument in the bud before it starts to germinate. No if you are portraying a "Indian spy" type person trousers etc are not going to be your first choice of gear to look like a native. However remember that is a specific portrayal and the King of the Indian spies Daniel Boone had to send folks back to his cabin to get his leggings etc. before he went to rescue his daughter. He probably didn't want to get his sky blew jacket dirty.

Kit based off long hunter purchases and period sources  

Jacket of the common fashion....plus nice to wear hunting in the fall

Leggings...The basics

Leggings

Caldwell legging...small pieces at bottom are what's left of stirrups

Caldwell leather leggings...little cut out on bottom lets leggings tuck into mocs

Foster leggings 1790's  buttons may work like hook and eyes to keep them tight

             

New Brunswick leggings...same little tab cut out on bottom

Messiter legging and "thing" double tie at top for attaching to belt. tab at ankle. and slit for passing garter thru

   Ok so to dovetail in with a post by the Shirt tail mess guys I’ll cover some more info about leggings and legging construction. Thanx to those guys I now have to transcribe less period quotes on leggings.  The legging was a native item of clothing that was quickly adopted by Europeans for wear in the American backcountry. The Legging is simply a tube of cloth/leather that was sewn to the shape of the wearers leg leaving a “flap” of excess material to the outside.

                By the 1760’s leggings are often premade items used in the trade/gifts etc.  So when a native/hunter purchased a pair of leggings from one of the trading houses in Pittsburgh they were getting a garment that was almost ready to wear. For example the Messitier leggings has evidence that a “merchant”stitch line was present and removed by the person who wore the leggings.

                Ok so lets get on to making the leggings. I’ve included a chart of basic shapes of some of the extant period leggings to give people an idea of the basic shapes leggings came in. When you compare these to period images of folks wearing leggings you can see a high degree of standardization in the shape. This can also help folks shape their leggings as they pattern them out.

                The pattern I’m going off of is based on the Cloth leggings owned by Sir John Caldwell (1770’s great lakes) what you’ll need:

1 yard Wool material (broadcloth,duffels etc)

Scissors, linen thread, pins (safety pins work best TRUST ME ON THIS) chalk, measuring tape and ruler. You may also want to use a large sheet of paper to make a pattern to make more leggings later.

1.       Measure your thigh a hands width  (3-4 inches) above your knee. This will be measurement A.

2.       Measure from the spot you tookthe “A”  measurement  to the ankle bone. This will be measurement “B”

3.       Measure the circumference at your ankle at the ankle bone this becomes Measurement “C”

Now lay out your meaurments of your paper/cloth like this:

By placing “B” in the center of your “A” and “B” masurment you’ll have a basic outline of the top and bottom of the leggings.

4.       Now you will want to add “4 fingers” (3-4 inches) to both sides of your “A” and “C” measurments (this is what makes the flaps)  Now draw a line to connect the ends of your “A” and “C” with straight lines and you have the outiline of your leggings.

**NOTE*** if you have larger legs you may need to add more then 4 fingers to give you wide flaps.

Now fold your legging blank in Half  (along line “B”) and Iron..  Now pin your leggings together from top to bottom four fingers in from the outside of the flap. This will act as a temporary “merchant stitch”.

                Slide your leg into the legging tube (this is why I recommend safety pins) and pin the legging as close your leg as you can from top to bottom. It’s important that the legging be tight. As in skinnier then skinny jeans tight.  If your going to wear breeches or thick stockings with the leggings I recommend wearing them while you fit the legging.

                A number of period descriptions comment on how tight the leggings are and this is also shown in the period artwork. Tight leggings also stay up better when wearing them. And they will loosen over a short period of time to a comfortable level.

                Remove the legging and From the top of this line of pins do a tight running stitch following this line of pins. I put the legging back on evey few inches of stitching to make sure they still fit properly. Stop the line about 6 inches from the bottom of the legging (or stop at the base of your calf muscle) if you don’t the leggings get 100% harder to remove.

                On the Caldwell leggings this is the point the leggings are closed by hooks and eyes for the next few inches. (see image) Hooks and eyes show up on a number of native sites  The Foster leggings (great lakes 1790’s)  have buttons on this area that may help closure. I simply prefer to do nothing to this section and tie it shut with a “garter at the ankle” as seen in accounts or the flaps of my moccasins.

                A few other details on the Caldwell leggings. They have a “stirrup” of wool at the bottom of the legging. This helps keep the legging inside the moccasin when wearing them (a detail you can clearly see in a number of period images). The strap for the legging is sewn behind the rear flap . The Messiter Legging has a pair of wool ties for straps and there are images showing the strap in a “Y” shape (part of the Y sewn in front and behind the flaps)

Pin & sew stirrup on inside fold of legging

pin and sew other side of stirrup on the front flap next to your foot

Per Caldwell example pin/sew strap behind rear flap on legging

"Timeline guy" image you can see the "Y" strap on legging. also note legging so tight as to hold a knife sheath and tucked into moc flaps

possible "buttons" on the bottom of legging like foster example

                With this basic pattern you can tweek it to the shape of any f the legging outlines I have shown. Also please for the love of god keep the flaps on your leggings. The flaps fold to the front (per the knox description) acts as 3 layers of material between you and the thorns/jaggers/briars etc. Please think past the 90’s fab of flapless and back into the 1760’s reality of flaps. Do it for the Children!

Legging sewn up and ready to wear  Scrap material can be used as garter at knee and ankle

                I’ll post more on decorations (ribbon work/beads etc) later common colors listed in the Fort Pitt ledgers are Blue, Green, WHITE, purple, red and did I mention white? If you purchase 1 ½ yards of wool cloth this should cover both a pair of leggings and breechclout. If you cut carefully 3 yards of cloth can give you a breechcloth, leggings and matchcoat. So for like $75 you can knock out a majority of asimple backcontry/native kit (even if you use Kochan wool you can have an inexpensive kit)

Garter at the ankle to keep legging closed and snug

Section left unsewn, could be closed with hook and eyes but I simply use a garter to keep it shut

stirrup passing under foot. keeps legging inside moc/shoe and brush out

 http://shirttailmess.blogspot.com/2017/08/to-ape-manner-of-savages-or-if-james.html
A lot of legging stuff

I bet if you tolld Henry Harmon he was wearing" town pants" he'd smack you.

Gabriel Bray

If leather breeches are the blue jeans of the 18^th century then that makes trousers  the cargo pants. I’ve been an advocate of trousers for quite some time. They are a common working class garment from the 18^th century that shows up all over the place. Of course that means I have to revisit the idea as for some this working class garment is simply “town pants” (grumble) so here we go again….

So Rather then reinvent the wheel on this one I’m going to just gloss over some info that has been overlooked by many folks. For example in his often quoted description of the clothing of the backcountry (less fce it hunting shirts get all the press) J F Smythe the mention of non “native” clothing has been overlooked:

Leather breeches, made of indian dressed elk or deerskins, but more frequently thin trousers

Charles woodmason also had a similar observation on the use of “thin” trousers as he traveled the Carolina back country on the eve of the Revolution commenting that the men wear:

“frocks or shirts and long trousers”  

He is also greatly surprised that these people show up for church wearing:

      “The men with only a thin shirt and pair of breeches or trousers on”

Trousers are often worn over breeches to act as a type of coverall. This practice is shown in a number of runaway ads. And can be seen in details in some images of sailors. For example a runaway from Virginia in the 1770’s sports clothing that could be common on either side of the mountains:

                Twenty DOLLARS Reward. RUN away the 20th of October last, from the subscriber in Pittsylvania county, a mulatto man slave named James, about twenty years of age….; had on when he went away a felt hat almost new, a hunting shirt, leather breeches, and linen trousers over them, besides other old clothing.

                Interesting that in the first Vriginia runaway ad I have been able to find listing a “hunting shirt” as a common descriptive term. You also find a pair of trousers:

                Williamsburg, June 16, 1768.

RUN away from the subscribers, in Augusta county, in the forks of James river, two convict servant men, one named Israel Cowen, aged about 27 years, about 5 feet 7 inches high, of a dark complexion, his head bald and blind of his left eye. He had on when he went away, a new felt hat, an old thickset coat, with tortoise-shell buttons, a blue broadcloth jacket, trowsers, and old shoes. The other named George Wilkinson, aged about 20 years, about 5 feet 6 inches high, of a sandy complexion, and red hair. Had on when he went away, a new felt hat, hunting shirt and callico waistcoat, with old buckskin breeches, blue leggings, and old shoes

                And just because I think the mention of a “powder gourd” is killer and for my farrier friends out there one more runaway ad:

  Nanjemoy, Charles County, October 22, 1771. RAN away from the Subscriber, on Sunday the 6th Instant at Night, Two Negro Men, about 5 Feet and a Half high: Had on each an old Cotton Jacket, a Pair of new Rolls Trousers, Roll Shirt, and an old Felt Hat; took with them Two small Guns, One Shot-bag, a Powder-gourd with some Powder in it, and in the Shot bag were Two Books, one of Fisher's Arithmetick, the other a Farrier's Book.

                The use of trousers is not limited to those in the English world. George Morgan makes a number of mentions on the use of trousers by the French at Kaskaskia in the Illinois Country:

“A handkerchief round his head- one round his neck, a third round the waste & a fourth in his hand or under his arm- a pair of gay striped trowsers, buckled into their shoes- a calico jacket- a blanket coat” (note he said calico jacket not SHIRT)

                Morgan even mentions this when sending notes back to his partners on just what IS selling at the store.:

The cotton stripe you sent, is of the right kinds but is not wide enough for many the French want it for—particularly trowsers which they wear remarkably long & to buckle in their shoes—this they wear summer and winter

…The officers and soldiers as well as some of the French inhabitants here have constantly wore our common cotton Hollands in jackets and trousers for want of better. Without that kind of dress the summers here would be unsupportable…whereas the muslins are wore winter and summer by men and women.

                This type of dress matches up to images of the French inhabitants of the Caribbean nations. The Light weight cotton jackets and Trousers are a way of dealing with the heat. Is this also why Woodmason’s Carolinians prefer “light” trousers?

                Ok I can hear the thought process now “I don’t portray a runaway” or “I don’t portray a farmer” yadda yadda…insert rugged individual comment here. So let’s get to the Hunters.  Oznabrigs are a common purchase by Morgan’s hunters.

Robert Smith A hunter (1767)

July 29th to 1 ell Russia sheeting 9/ Ashton’s Acct for cutting out Pr of trousers & thread to make them .3.9

Alexander Ferguson a hunter (1768)

June 4th 1 knife 5”  1 frock 12”10

1 comb 2” 1 handkf 5”

June 5th 1 pr trousers 15”

Summer hunting kit Trousers and unlined calico jacket.

                So here we have Alexander Ferguson purchasing a pair of trousers in the same year and month that two men are running away in Wiliamsburg, Virginia are wearing what sounds like outfits you could find on Morgan’s men. Common?

                Ok, Ok I can hear the one lone voice in the wilderness now. Morgan’s men weren’t “LONG HUNTERS” they were Market hunters….all the real Long hunters were outfitted in Bethabera by the moravians you know guys like the Harmons.. Well then just sit back and relax and get ready to sport long pants

. In the Moravian Records  purchases on a march day in the 1760’s (the date is smudged) Henry Harmon  purchases along with duffels, bearskin(the wool type), Oznabrigs, Horn Buttons, Camblet….

Oznabrig Towsers 4/-

Linnen Jacket

Crazy….Even the Harmons wore trousers and a jacket. Working class people in common working class clothes. Did that just blow your mind? I'm not even going to start talking about "rifle trousers"...

Jason Melius kitted out as a longhunter based on actual purchases of Harmons

                To make my trousers I simply tweeked the JP Ryan breeches pattern by extending the pattern from mid thigh down. I opted to keep the pockets on them as I plan to wear them by themselves and not over my leather breeches. But it would be a simple tweek to the pattern to remove the pockets and go for the side slash opening as shown in the sailor images.

  I purchased the Oznabrigs from Willaim Booth Draper. The stuff is awesome to sew as the threads allow you to count your stitches easily (not a joke it really does)  Burnley and trowbridge carries the cloth as well  and I cant recommend either of these vendors enough.

                Having worn trousers for a number of years at events/scouts they are great in the summer and more comfortable then even a breechclout. Make a pair out of a light woolen cloth or linsey Woolsey for cold weather. So I hope I showed you another option for your backcountry hunter kit that was sper common and super practical. The one thing I’m going to fix on my pair is I’m adding horn buttons so my trouser can match Mr. Harmons.

Map Cartouche image..hunting shirt and trousers

Gabriel Bray Image. You can see the side slash for getting into your breeches pockets

Once hunters farewell to the plough. The chase renders them ferocious, gloomy, and unsociable

 

Hide frames can lead to Narnia

"The worst of them are those that have degenerated altogether into the hunting state....our time is divided between labor and rest and leaves no time for the commission of great misdeeds. As hunters it is divided between the toile of the chase, the idleness of repose or the indulgence of inebriation. Hunting is but a licentious, idle life. "  "letters from an American farmer"

So Long story short...I'm back. Cant go into all the details but it involved the Shirttail mess guys burning a copy of Cresswell's journal during the Eclipse, saying my name 3 times and pouring Yeungling on an antique trap. This can lead one through weirdness on the other side of a stretching frame. I would have summoned Cthulu but hey that's me.  Dark, weird stuff.
I've been busy with real life, new job, reading and a lot of woods time. So as a result I'm now trying to replace a lot of my gear and I figured with the latest push to rethink just what the backcountry hunter looked like I'd take the time to write down some info on the gear I'm replacing.

"wake up Killbuck I just had an evil idea.."

So I'll be keeping stuff less esoteric this time, I promise less inside jokes and Random bursts of anger will be kept to a minimum.  I have Said farewell to the plough however...
To get some history in here a random story about a Quaker for Mr. C

AN Angry Quaker from The Itinerarium of Dr. Alexander Hamilton

We were entertained with an elegant dispute between a young Quaker and the boatswain of a privateer, concerning the lawfulness of using arms against an enemy. The Quaker thee'd and thou'd it thro' the nose to perfection, and the privateer's boatswain swore just like the boatswain of a privateer, but they were so far from settling the point that the Quaker had almost acted contrary to his principles, clenching his fist at his antagonist to strike him for bidding God damn him.

awesome read, a lot of small weird details about clothing, habits. Nantucket women are addicted to opium and the men to pocket knives?  Hamilton

Snapdragon

Cohee noise

Traders from Fort Pitt photo by Rob Hunter

Portraying traders accompanying Ohio country delegation to Williamsburg....level up history nerd